Maraufu:
Makira-Ulawa’s Past Adolescence Grooming Process
James is a young Makira
man who only reached standard six some years ago. Norman, his cousin didn’t
complete his primary education. Andrew completed his primary school but had the
luck of completing a Rural Training Centre training.
The same is also true
for a lot of their peers. Today, they live in their village in Central Makira doing
the same thing: alcohol, tobacco and or drug abuse.
Advices from their
parents, village elders and parish priest fall on deaf years.
They are now tired of talking. This, the
elders reckon, is happening because of modern education. It is taking young
children away from their customs and exposing them to introduced ideas.
When they finish
schooling and go home, the young don’t know their customs and culture and
therefore don’t care. The young instead live in the periphery of culture and
the introduced culture and norms they learned in school.
This, according to
Joseph Faerua of Santa Catalina Island, is also true for most school leavers of
his island in east Makira.
In the olden days, he
said, adolescent boys were required to go through a certain tradition called
Maraufu.
This is a custom which
helped young adolescent males to acquire the skills and norms of their society
in order to become good citizens. This tradition was practised throughout
Makira until Christianity arrived.
Mr Faerua added, it
also used to be practised on Ulawa and Ugi Islands.
“But when Missionaries
came in they regarded it as unchristian. Maraufu used to be a very important
tradition because it acted like a bridge between adolescence and adulthood.
Faerua explained that before
this ritual is performed, the community must fulfill several things. Firstly,
they must build a custom house and carve a bonito canoe. These are the two most
important things. Without them, the ritual could not happen.
The process starts when
chiefs call a meeting to which all fathers are invited to talk about their
young sons. Boys aged between 10 and 12 only would qualify to become maraufu.
“The chief would
consult with men about the custom house. If the house was old and needed
repairing, they would repair it. If they needed to build a new one, they would do
it. Once these were completed, the chief would ask about the old bonito canoe.
If there was a need for a new one, they would build it.
“When the canoe was
completed, the young boys would go fishing. It was only the young boys, no one
else. Once the young boys were chosen, they were not allowed to return to their
families. They would stay in the specially built house – some way away from the
main village – until they completed the rituals. Usually they would stay by
themselves for nine months to a year.”
Meanwhile, he said, the
fathers would convene and discuss about the things they should prepare for
their sons. They would build special beds and then hold another meeting to decide
on when the village would bring yams home. Once dates for collections were agreed
on, they would ask the villagers to go and fetch them. The yams were carried
home according to the ranks of the young boys. The head boy’s would be the
first followed by his other peers’.
”As soon as all the
yams were home, the men would work on decorating the specially built platform.
The special platform – usually raised high above the ground - was where the
boys were to be honored. Yams were, again, hung according to the ranks of the
boys - on each one’s post, again marked according to their ranks. Each of the
boys also had one pig tied to his post.”
He also added that
before the decorations were made, the village would engage in making pudding
and store them in big wooden bowls for the occasion.
“On the day of their
adornment, the boys would be decorated with shell money, stuck custom combs into
their hair, given a ‘maramaraitapa’(a basket full of all sorts of things, shell
money and other valuables) to avoid the blood of bonito spilling onto their
chests and clad in a tiny piece of loin cloth covering their genitals.
“Once all decorated, the
maraufu were led by a chief walking in a style called ‘Watoparo’. This means he
would put one leg forward for a few seconds with a certain hum then another
step and hum all the way to the ladder of the raised platform.
“Once they reach the
‘Tara ano’ or the ladder they would climb up, (The platform was usually covered
with betel nuts, leaves, cigarettes - all sorts of good things) one man would already
be standing there waiting for them. Once the boys get up and line up next to
their allotted posts, the boys would grab hold of the betel nuts, leaves and
cigarettes and throw them down to the waiting crowd below. (You can imagine how
the crowds react in trying to grab whatever they want at that moment. The
strong ones usually were the lucky ones. Some old men and women fell down in
the milieu).
“However, the maraufu
would proceed to the centre of the platform and then descended the ladder slowly.
And waiting on the ladder would be the aunt of the head maraufu. As soon as the
leader, who was always ahead of the others, came down and reached her he must kiss
one of her nipples – this was the tradition – a sign that the maraufu had come
home.
After that, said
Faerua, the boys would each go to their houses and removed all the decorations
on their bodies before following the others to share the food with the rest of
the community.
“The puddings they
prepare for the maraufu are very special. Once they finish eating, their
fathers would kill the allotted pigs for a big feast the following day.
“In the night following
their adornment, the maraufu still kept their maramaraitapa (a basket full of
all sorts of things, shell money and other valuables). At night the boys’
aunties would go and look for any girls of their choice – only girls were
allowed to tear the maramaraitapa, not anyone else. After they finish tearing
the woven baskets, the girls would go and hang the baskets near the women’s
latrine or maamaru.”
The next day a big
feast should take place. This would be when every house killed a pig and the
pudding is divided up equally for the entire village to celebrate. On such
occasions so many pigs would be killed.
The maraufu celebration
used to be popular in the past to prepare young boys for manhood, said Faerua.
“I was a maraufu myself
during my younger days before I went to school. Now I am an old man,” he added and
smiled.
Mr Faerua stressed that
this tradition helped young men of the community to know how to conduct
themselves in society. How to build houses, how to fish as well as the customs
associated with fishing, know who their clans are and understand the general norms
of their society.
Today, sadly, he added,
these qualities are vanishing because young Solomon Islanders learn introduced
qualities so when they return to the village they are lost. When they follow the introduced ideas, which
are for the most part, do not exist in the village they are confused. And when
they are confused, they end up in all sorts of unwanted behaviors - behaviors
which are not acceptable in the eyes of the community leaders and members.
Mr Faerua, a former
radiologist at the Central Hospital, is now retired and is living on Santa
Catalina. A few years ago, he was chosen to be a chief of his tribe.
After he finished his tale,
Mr Faerua sighed, looked down at table he was sitting next to and said unless
the country looks back at its past and teaches it to future Solomon Islanders
there may not be any hope of turning the current tide back.
But in 2013 and 2014 Mr
Faerua was the leading figure in reviving this important tradition through a
film called The Test. In this movie, written and directed by locals but filmed
by a renowned French photographer, Laurent, Mr Faerua’s grandson, Ernest
Faerua, the lead actor led a group of young boys in the revival. So today, this
lost tradition is now restored and has become an additional attraction for the
people of Santa Catalina or Aorigi as it’s known locally.
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