Monday, June 6, 2016

A Christmas tale at east Makira

Our Simple Unvalued Pleasures

It was a very simple suggestion. And expectedly the number to turn up would be small. There wasn’t 
much planning. It was an idea someone threw into the pond. Everyone or at least, those who were told knew that something was to happen. The days went by one by one. Each one who knew about the plan remembered it at the back of their minds. And continued to work on their everyday plans, oblivious to what the man picked as the host was planning or intended on doing.
When the day approached, a single call came to us by mobile phone. ‘You’ll be picked up in a fibre glass canoe. Not OBM. It’s a small paddling one. The canoe which belongs to Godwin’ was all it was.
On Christmas Day, we headed to where we’d been told to wait. Soon, the blue paddling fibre glass boat approached, paddled by one man, Esau Masu and two young boys, his nephews. They came and came. Soon they landed and the three of us boarded. As the paddlers kept paddling us towards a thick mangrove forest, we could see single dugout canoes paddling ahead of us. One contained a single family. Another - slightly ahead of the one with the single family – perhaps with three or four people but we couldn’t tell as the dugout was too far ahead for us to properly make out. However, we kept going and soon, the nose of the boat touched mangrove branches that blocked the entrance of the river or stream we were heading into.
“Watch the twigs of the mangroves,” skipper Masu warned. We ducked. They kept paddling. We kept moving up what turned out to be a stream, bordering between stream and river.
“It’s not very big. But it seems so because of the high tide that’s coming on,” said Masu.
There was silence, the only sounds the paddles digging the river and spreading droplets backwards and driving us forward.  The three of us, who sat in front of the paddlers, could only imagine them getting wet from their hard paddling!
Our eyes peered ahead. There was still no sign of the eco lodge, Tagauraha.
“We’re nearly there,” our skipper assured.
Although the sun was really hot in the open sea, it was very cool because we were under tall thick mangroves trees that towered above us and extended for kilometers up and around the stream. The stream was silver slick and no waves so it was smooth sailing, as it were. They paddled. Each of us in the front seat was lost in our own thoughts. I marveled at the tall straight mangrove trees that kept going my eyes couldn’t reach their last line. I didn’t know what my other two family members were thinking, but perhaps they too were consumed by the natural smell and beauty of the place.
Someone told me some years back red snappers could be caught in the stream during high tides. I imagined someone catching one such snapper and dropping it into the canoe then pressing it down with a heavy paddle or whatever to whimper shake jump and then eventually die, much to the joy of the catcher.
“Some silly buggers cut trees into the river but don’t bother to clean them up so the paddling is is always disturbed,” commented one of the young boys behind us. The skipper and the second boy chorused in support. Then they continued paddling and paddling.
Soon, our eyes - always darting ahead - sighted the entrance to the eco lodge. It was a small opening and a dugout was tied or may be partly pulled up the shore.
“Here we are,” Masu said excitedly. “We are home. The others might already be there,” he said.
No sooner had he said this than we landed and disembarked slowly as our granddaughter was with us. And this was her very first ride on a paddled canoe. She’s used to outboard motors.
It was when we set foot ashore that it dawned on us. There were more people than expected. Luckily, they were all family, so it was all good.
David Masu, the eco lodger owner, told us gladly that the other family members were going to celebrate Christmas with us too.
Not long after that, he announced that the barbecuing should proceed immediately and then went to the house and asked for support to carry the fish he’d prepared for the BBQ. It was obvious he’d dropped a net the previous night or in the early morning.
It was a large dish full of fish already prepared for the fire. My family and I gave him a bottle of cooking oil, garlic and onions and rice then opted to take a walk around the compound. Built on a small patch of land between the stream and the sea less than 20km wide, the Tagauraha Lodge is surrounded by long lines of big fruit pawpaw trees, coconuts and mangroves.
It was obvious Mr Masu had cut down a few mangrove trees to build his lodge. To the north he chopped down a few more to create a footpath to lead to a sprawling wide reef that almost continued into the horizon!
“There’s no rough sea here,” he explained. “You see the small islets out there to the north, the waves break some metres away from there and then come ashore to fill up the dry land when the tide is high,” he added. “You’ll see it when the tide is up.”
In the kitchen, the women, men and youths worked to see that all the food was ready on time.
Some young boys who completed their assigned tasks jumped into the dark murky stream and competed swimming up and down  like Olympians.
Slightly after 3pm, all the cooking was done and lodge owner David Masu led the way in dividing the food for us.
He started by opening a hot stone oven in which baked taro, fish and cabbage in coconut milk lay since early morning. After that, he left the work to the women as the boys continued to chase each other in the murky stream which had expanded wider because of a fledgling high tide.
Soon, Masu called everyone to attention and then invited us all to eat.
Early morning sun out at sea
Barbecued fish, taro cooked in a stone oven with a bit of cassava, cabbages and some more fish cooked in the stone oven as well all made up our individual shares. Then green coconuts came last – our quenching drink.

That was our 2015 Christmas celebration at the Tagauraha Lodge of Tawaroga, east Makira.
BBQ Fish

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